15:30

The evening safari reinforced our hopes of seeing the Lion King. After necessary entry formalities, we were once again inside our favourite arena and riding confidently with an assured air. A live railway track passed through the forests. And sadly, it has been responsible for many lion deaths. We spotted a Chital leaping across the tracks. A Sambar was resting calmly under the shade of a tree near the jeep road. She glanced at the visitors who had halted to click a landscape image of her. A Flame-back Woodpecker was engrossed in meticulously chiselling out her home in the bark of a tall tree. It’s a delight to watch it build its house; it hits nearly twenty times a second; an exhaustive job even to look at! A small Chital fawn stood transfixed watching us intently with its cute and curious eyes. It seemed to be fixing the newcomers; categorizing us somewhere in its memory; recollecting the different species its mother had taught. And just as we stood looking at the little beauty, it bounded away inside the protective greenery to directly consult with mother.

We caught a Changeable Hawk Eagle sitting on a branch, surveying the artificial waterhole below. A Nilgai or the Blue Bull was grazing ahead. It was hidden by the dense shrubbery. Gir offers a better camouflage than other counterparts as most of its inhabitants just amalgamate with the dry brown growth. Moving forward, we saw a white-breasted water hen making its way through a puddle. A trio of red-wattled lapwing were walking close to the jeep. But as we checked to shoot, their long legs carried their light bodies as far as possible. An Indian Hoopoe was merrily hopping around. The small crest that adorned its head was fascinating to watch. Much to my satisfaction, a large number of Green Bee Eaters were stationed on the wires and tree tops. I simply love these small-sized birds so beautifully painted. Colours have been used adeptly on them. Shining in the gleaming sun rays, they were looking for signs of food around. Their technique of catching their prey skilfully in mid-air is a spectacular sight. A Common Kingfisher, again an astonishing showcase of colours sat quietly on a rock. It was eyeing the water body ahead with a deep interest.

The geographical location of Sasan Gir is such that it hosts a variety of birds – resident as well as migratory. Come winter and a huge number of migratory birds grace the jungle with their presence.

17:15

Though we were yet to hear or see any signs of a predator, we were immensely satisfied with the birds that saw. We had retreated to our seats, as the safari was almost coming to an end. But hope is something that can spring surprises at any moment. There was a drama waiting to be unveiled!

Our engines were abruptly slowed down and we saw the motive. There she was, lying right in front of us, the Queen of the Jungle; resting in one corner of the road with much of her long, slender body on the road. Her eyes were closed. But the moment she sensed the road under her vibrate due to our tyres, she opened them to see the cause trembling her piece of earth. It was a turning and as we tried to keep the sound of engine and our excitement to the lowest, nothing could have prepared us for yet another grand twist in the tale. Some metres behind the mother, in the centre of the path, lay her children – a female and male cub, sequentially.

They were of a good shape and build but had not yet reached full adulthood and were still with their mother. They too were resting at a distance but under the watchful eyes of their mother. The safari road had thus been transformed into a private family resting place and that had now been barged upon by intruders. The female cub raised her head to see the aliens standing in front but at a safe distance from her mother. The male was still asleep unmindful of the trespassers.

All of us were enthralled by the scene ahead. We stood there awestruck. It was our first full view of a lion family, minus the king, in the wild. It was an emotional upsurge; a sense of imperial achievement. We were taking in as much as we could; reeling in the enchantment that had rooted us to the spot.

And then they heard them.

Straining our ears, we heard them too. A buffalo herd was moving noisily at some expanse beyond. This alerted and attracted their attention for a while, till the noise subsided. The male cub also was wide awake now, looking directly at us. Judging that the intruders were only bystanders, not planning any move, the family went back to their afternoon nap. As per park rules, jeeps were obviously not supposed to disturb the trio resting on the safari tracks. There was no way of moving onward without stirring them. More jeeps had parked behind us, each desperate to catch a glimpse of the show on display. We had to forge a way somehow. Our guide finally decided to move a little left into the shrubs along the road and come back on it at a harmless distance behind where the male cub was resting.

As we manoeuvred our engine leftward, the mother’s eyes followed our movement with rapt attention. One of her legs wore an injury mark that was still raw but in the process of drying up. We were by-passing her and moving near her kids. Her eyes did not betray. They looked certain to tear us apart, if we put a wheel out of the line. We were about to halt in front of the female cub for a second when the inquisitive cub raised her head and readied her body as if for a lunge. Our driver instinctively decided otherwise, life was truly precious, and he did not stop till he reached right behind the male cub. at the moment, the three of them were sandwiched between safari jeeps. The mother was alert now, fearing threat to her cubs. She rose; turned and squatted looking in our direction.

The female sat looking periodically at us and the new jeep that had taken our spot. She yawned displaying her potent canines. That exhibition embedded fear in the already captivated eyes. The male was still sleeping with his shielding women around.

Unlike the nonchalant tigers, these friends of the big cats showed aggression at being troubled and if looks could seriously kill, you would have been dead. Realising that we indeed meant no harm, the queen’s glare and body relaxed. Slowly, just like we had done, the other jeep too started moving on the side track. The third vehicle was a private Toyota, dazzling white in colour. It stood striking in the brown growth. The passengers, showing little fear and respect for the royal family had stopped in front of the cub and were clicking and enjoying themselves rather than quietly moving ahead.

The female cub had had enough. She decided to teach everyone a lesson and likewise lunged forward. Glasses were immediately drawn. It was lucky no one died of a heart attack. The Toyota driver raced ahead and was out on the roads in seconds. You dare not mess with the Princess and her family was the clear message sent and lesson learnt! She trudged a few steps back and sat at the centre of the road. By now, the brother was also ready, in case the sister’s message fell on deaf ears. And like obedient students, one by one, slowly, all vehicles followed suit, none waiting even for a second to have a good look.

How many of us, do you think were really blessed to be taught, such a royal lesson, by the family of the Lion King, with a live demo on someone else!

(to be continued…)