Day 2 – Jan 25, 2015

05:00 AM

We were awake with the first light of dawn intermittently streaming through the bamboo hut. Gradually, we took in our new surroundings.

Tall Indian Grass grew in the garden. The Indian Coral Tree was in bloom and attracted numerous birds. We ate bread with freshly procured, thick and dark honey from the forests. Some spotted an owl, which, it seems, had been sitting all night outside one of the huts and munching on a rat (bones left behind were evidences enough). Fruit bats also sometimes took shelter in the huts during the night. One of us may have chased a bird so much to get a good glimpse that the bird decided to teach a lesson and shat perfectly perpendicular, on the face, targeting the eye. Glasses emerged as a saviour and protected the eye. And the bird was left alone for the remainder of our time in the resort that morning.

We played with Karok, Sheru and their 4 pups as we waited for the cars to arrive. The pups were too shy and ran behind their parents every time we approached them. They would only allow us to come as much close to them and off they would be in case we put a toe out of our line.

Breakfast done, we were ready with our bags packed for the real reason of our journey this far – Namdapha National Park.

Journey III – Miao to Deban

09:00 AM

The Deban Forest Rest House (FRH), maintained by the Forest Department, is the base camp to the National Park.

The first check post proclaimed a welcome to the Namdapha Tiger Reserve, Miao, Arunachal Pradesh. With elated hearts we entered the Project Tiger Reserve wishing ourselves a wonderful trek ahead in the jungles of eastern Himalayas. The Noa-Dihing flowed towards our left, meandering through the settlements. White-capped Redstart, Slaty-backed and White-crowned Forktail, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Long-tailed Shirke, random Wabblers were some birds that greeted us on the way.

11:00 AM

Deban FRH. As the entry formalities were being made and the team was being set up by our guide, we utilized the limited time available for birding around the place. A yellow-bellied fantail popped out of one of the branches, a Malayan Giant Squirrel moving through the fruiting trees gave us a pleasant surprise, numerous colourful butterflies fluttered around. Large Yeoman and Yellow Orange Tip were the ones I recognised. It was a great start to a super great week ahead in the forests.

Our team was announced. It consisted of six of us, two guides, two cooks, three helpers and to our immense surprise – a mahout, an elephant and a baby elephant too. We were caught unawares about the last two blockbuster additions of the team. Lakshmi, the mother elephant, was to carry our camping equipment and food supplies. We were saddened that she would be loaded, but were informed that it was the only way for the seven day trek inside. We were to realise later, after a day’s trek, that she was our saviour in disguise. Her small calf, Deewani (we tried to search the person who named her), obviously couldn’t be left behind and shyly followed the mother everywhere.

Asom Masang (read Ashom Moshang) and Vicky (read Bikki) were our guides. Moshang was an accomplished birder and Bikki, relatively an amateur, but he knew a great deal.

12:30 AM

And the adventure started, as the sixteen of us crossed Deban Nallah and then walked along the Noa-Dihing to enter the pristine forests of Namdapha. The thin yet effusive stream of river accompanied us, as we walked alongside it with towering trees and forests on either side of us and the Dapha Bum range looming majestically in front of us.

Himalayan Spotted Sawtooth and Common Windmill were basking in the sand undisturbed. In case you were wondering, these are names of butterflies. These tenderly winged beauties have such terrifyingly impressive names which unless one has been prior exposed to, seem very Sci-Fi and alien.

We had our packed lunch on the pebbly banks of the river, filled our bottles with the sweet water and moved on. We looked such a tiny part of our surroundings. Forget us; even the full-grown elephant looked so small. We were humbled. We silently climbed upward into the forest.

The forest completely engulfed the path and rightly so. Moshang informed us that we were the first group of trekkers for the season after the rains; so much of the path was not cleared. I was mesmerised at the sight of the trees which reached the skies and were so vast in girth. I had thought only mountains had these two qualities. Trees here were competing with the mountains! We were soaking in the excessive greenery around, getting accustomed to it. A cacophony of voices were heard, none of which were recognised. It was the beginning of a wonderful bond about to be forged with the forests.

Camp I – Happy Valley (7 km trek)

03:30 PM

After a three hour walk, we arrived at Happy Valley, which was to be the camp for the night. Owing to some logistical problem, rather than camping on the top in the forest, the guide decided to climb down and camp on the banks of Noa-Dihing for the night. Forests posed the first minor hurdle for us. Climbing down a slippery piece of land, we had to either cross the stream which was waist-deep or walk on a bamboo bridge over the stream. Just hours into the trek nobody was willing to get into water. Adventure high on everybody’s mind we decided to walk over the stream. It was easier said than done. The bridge was just two bamboo sticks placed on the opposite banks supported by rocks, above the stream and held by nothing in particular. Slowly, one by one we started crossing the path. It required concentration, bag and body weight balancing. Plus, the water showcased rocks that could open your skull if you were to by chance fall in it head down. Slowly and steadily, everyone got to the other side of the stream.

07:00 PM

Four tents were pitched – two purple, two blue. A loo-tent was also in place, which was hardly ever used throughout the trek. Nature’s call was better accomplished nature’s way at her home.

A simple dinner was being prepared. All of us sat on the rocky bed by the river. Sandwiched between two sides of dark and dense forests, we silently saw the sky transform into a heavenly abode of sparkling stars. The velvety backdrop, studded with pearls beckoned the moon. A rising moon decided to send some twinkling down to the earth too. And as the moon touched Noa-Dihing, she began to shimmer in its light. What more could six city-bred folks have asked for! It was more than picture-perfect.

Dinner done, we decided to chat for some time. To break the ice, one of the helpers, sang a song in lisu; it was lyrics in a certain humming rhythm. He told us stories about alcohol brewing, bamboo tea brewing, Assam chillies and so on. It was the first night of camp, at the edge of the pristine forest, a first time experience for most us, the obvious thing on all minds was fear! Ghost stories and para normal activities from all parts of India came forth too. After ensuring that everyone was equally scared, we decided to call it a day. One by one all disappeared into tents.

It was my first camping experience. Mine was the last tent in the row, with forests above and open river bed ahead. There had been pug marks of a leopard cat on the rocks beyond. Basically, we were an open meal for any of the carnivores that set to devour us. So, naturally I was scared beyond my wits. As I entered my tent, to my displeasure, I discovered that the tent, once zipped, completely shut out any light. It was pitch-dark. Eyes took their time to adjust; slowly I slipped into the sleeping bag; kept the torch and water bottle handy; zipped the sleeping bag; prayed to the Lord of Lords and slowly closed my eyes. With eyes closed, ears promptly began gathering noise. Night came with its mystery and to add to it, forests with had their mysterious and daunting sounds. With imagination playing part, it was a flawless stage for a horror play.

But as the night crept, there was one sound that intensified over others. The flowing Noa-Dihing. It was the only sound that kept the entire system alive in the night. When you were sleeping on the same level and close to the river bed you could feel the ground vibrating. The sound of the river was the only company I had in my more than dark tent. After an eternity, or so it seemed, sleep overcame all other strains of the mind.

(to be continued…)